Digital Version


Milano, Paris, New York and London women collections details in the biggest existing size


“The world has changed and we have changed.” The words of Donatella Versace are the latest of many statements that designers released at the start of the pandemic. After the full-blown crisis in the industry, after the letters and manifestoes expressing intentions to change course, make less and make better, every designer and their brands, has undoubtedly poured feelings and introspection into their latest collections. Some have celebrated the saving power of painting or gardening, some translated the many books they read into their clothes, some rediscovered domestic intimacy and being close to loved ones. Between shows streamed online, video performances, presentations and, yes, conventional catwalk shows, perhaps held in a wheat field, reflections on the post-lockdown world were varied but had some things in common: the desire for a more comfortable, easy wardrobe, dictated by the obvious need to stay at home, various interpretations on freedom denied/longed-for/renewed, the rediscovery of and need for a new romanticism that brings to the fore the values of the eponymous artistic movement, which include an affirmation of individuality. Intimacy is the most private part, the part that rediscovers a certain pleasure in staying at home, wearing loungewear with soft, airy lines. A cry is heard from all the runways: Liberté! Having understood its value only once it was taken from us, when we could re-emerge we did grab hold of it in fear of it being taken away again. One reaction was to wrap up, throwing on layers and seeking protection from external attacks, or going for a rustic mix & match, or else dressing up festively but not rigorously, as if going to a country wedding. This kind of vision could be called Romantika: celebrating freedom, finding peace with yourself, wanting politeness and sweetness, losing yourself in stories of the past and taking them with you. With its puckering, lace and flowers, this vision speaks of the desire for a kinder, brighter tomorrow, and not just on the runway…..

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