MILANO+NEW YORK #28
WOMEN COLLECTIONS – AUTUMN/WINTER 2019.20
Milano and New York women collections details in the biggest existing size
Milan takes the form of a story. It writes, describes and rewrites on pages. The collections were film scripts, screenplays or scores for solo voices. Subject matters. Monologues. Stories. Fairy tales. Narratives. Words were stitched into fabrics as basting stitches, repairs and embroideries. Clothes were visual alphabets, material syllabaries, lyrical, poetic, filled with ideas, images and suggestions. Designers made their apparel statement, a reading-book of textile, spiritual and sartorial stimuli. Every artist named his or her work and every collection had a title or name entirely similar to an idea from a book, novel, film or concept album. Sounds grew on the runway. Distorted riffs. Guitar. Bass. Drums. The shows were a homage to music and to disorder…..
Who knows why we are accustomed to associating winter with dark and neutral tones, as though low temperatures and poor light had an influence over our colour choices, when the opposite should be true – surely wearing bright, bold tints would counter the gloominess of winter. The designers must have thought the same in New York, where the latest Autumn/Winter shows demonstrated a clear leaning towards colour, real vibrant colour, the one that illuminates the face and warms up even the chilliest New York day, where snowstorms and sub-zero temperatures are the norm in winter…..