MEN #25


The men collections details in the biggest existing size

The term ‘hemline index’ was coined by American economist George Taylor in 1926 to describe the way that skirt hemlines moved up and down according to economic trends, so shorter in boom time and longer during a downturn. It’s a theory that could be applied to various periods of history, such as the mini-skirt in the sixties and the long hippy skirts worn by the flower children in the ’70s. But why does the theory apply solely to womenswear and not to menswear too? The latest menswear shows celebrated not only floor-skimming trouser legs but also a broader oversized and hyper-protective fashion with very little bare skin exposed. Some might say that is because it is winter, but actually the oversize trend has been going strong for several seasons now, as has layering and using accessories and details worthy of Arctic or paramilitary expeditions. Men are feeling the crisis and are choosing to wrap up in blankets and big scarves, and ‘swimming’ inside jumper-dresses might just help deal with the sense of general stagnation. The problems of wider society go hand in hand with a more personal sense of unease in which men’s identity and role are called into question as the boundaries between the sexes become increasingly blurred.

Oversize is everything that helps you lose yourself and hide your identity: a hooded sweatshirt, a big collar, giant shoulders, extra-long sleeves, chunky shoes that look two sizes too big. But if everything is longer and wider, what happens to elegant, ‘made-to-measure’ men’s clothes? It simply adapts. With more relaxed shapes, enormous jackets, loose trousers, long coats, which can then be shorter or tighter if required. Tailoring Variations overturns proportions and incorporates technical details, showcasing an instinct for both protection and revolt. The trend includes multi-pocketed vests and harnesses, as though joining a business meeting or a soirée was a little like going into the trenches. Finally, a spontaneous Punk Rock counter-revolution brings rebellion to the choice of shapes, which are a little closer-fitting, firmer and sharper. Along with transparencies, mesh, holes and metallic sheen.

Garments: parkas, down jackets (some long), anoraks, extra-long coats, shearling, oversize tailoring and blazers, shirts, high-necked jumpers, turtlenecks, cardigans, sweatshirts, technical vests, cargo trousers, track pants, sneakers, ankle boots, collars, hoods, oversize hats, maxi scarves, gloves of various lengths and thickness, blankets, backpacks, travel sacks, bumbags, brooches, mask glasses.
Materials: smooth velvet and corduroy, cashmere, technical fabrics (nylon), leather, faux fur, denim, plastic (some recycled).
Details: military elements, sportswear, workwear and trekking, layering, oversize, extra-long, mix & match, vintage touches, all-over, knitwear, quilting, padding, turn-ups, transparencies, statement shoulders, large and small pockets, zips, harnesses, fringes, bands, buckles, straps, drawstrings, cords, laces, side bands, colour blocking, patches, embroidery, camouflage, glitter, patchwork, jacquard, stripes, animal print, checks, skull motifs, cartoon prints, fauna patterns, raised techniques, British motifs, statements, logos, glossy effects, tie-dye, neon.
Colours: black, grey, beige, blue, red, shades of green, purple, neon colours.