WOMEN COLLECTIONS – SPRING/SUMMER 2019
All the best accessories of the fashion shows in the biggest existing size
This season’s themes may be wildly different, but they all share a vision of femininity that is surprising and never predictable, between playful and dreamy, that has fun dressing up as an astronaut or relaxing in the shade of a tree. Picnic 2.0 reminds us of the charm of life in the open air, of clear skies and accessories that forget form in favour of materials and textures, including suede, macramé, raffia and wicker baskets. A stroll through the rooms of an Art School provides spontaneous, unexpected decoration and colour in various forms, from tie-dye to untidy marker strokes, is a main feature. Rocket Launch offers silver and futuristic transparencies in a space-age style that does not take itself too seriously and ingenuously depicts a space heroine imagined in the ’60s.
A fishnet basket placed in a meadow, ode to life en plein air! Muses with cow-girl inspired ankle boots take part in picnics with a country twist, dominated by warm colours and raw materials such as suede, woven leather and raffia. Isabel Marant’s pointed suede boots come in neutral tones or black, laser-cut or studded and accompanied by fringed macramé bags swinging to the steady pace of modern Amazonians. Hermès proposes bucket bags with a leather superstructure that add elegance to the simple act of gathering mushrooms in the woods. Staying with the same theme, the fringed bag by Michael Kors in natural brown woven suede was paired in the show with cork-soled sandals. Woven leather is the leitmotiv of Salvatore Ferragamo footwear, with woven boots and linen-strapped sandals. Even Altuzarra explores flatforms with simple lines and leather small braids sinuously wrapping around the foot. The wicker baskets carried by Dolce & Gabbana’s models and Sonia Rykiel’s white crocheted baskets with long fringes add to the already idyllic image. Last but not least, Coach 1941 proposes fringed sneakers, cowboy boots and patchwork leather bags, catapulting us for a moment to the Far West. Everything has a country allure whilst nodding to a ’70s mood.
Picking up your brushes, playing with colours and tones: a considerable share of the accessories are linked to the understated, simple and highly creative childhood imagery. The overriding detail is colour, adapted to a multitude of shapes. Watercolour or oil paint spontaneously brushed onto a blank canvas. Tie-dye, dabs of colour, and brushstrokes recalling a burgeoning artist’s attempts to produce art worthy of outliving its maker. Sketches, thin or thick strokes, doodles and abstract figures appear on bags in a variety of materials and shapes. Cristiano Burani has designed bags in tie-dye neon tints while Prada showed baguette bags with shaded paint effects, as though oil paint had been dilated by adding water, creating fluid shapes. Jil Sander’s girls carried pouches with a hastily drawn human figure on them, as though they were notebooks: the fine, simple lines decorated an understated rectangular bag made of linen. Marker pen strokes were scribbled on Moschino’s pumps, backpacks and handbags like improvised embellishments. At the other end of the spectrum, Marco de Vincenzo weaved faces, that were very much finished works of art, onto the texture of vintage looking bags. Finally, Christopher Kane’s playful, colourful sneakers had coloured balls tucked into the platform.
Exploring space without taking yourself too seriously: plastic alternated with a variety of materials that make it extremely ‘earthly’. The optical white of ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ gives everything around it an aura of aseptic mystery, while the accessories that team it with silver details have never been to space. Playing at being the super-heroines of the future, dressing up as Jane Fonda and nodding to the ’60s Space Age, using acetate insets and unexpected alien-shaped heels. Balmain encased simple leather clutches in plexiglas, giving them a see-through and intriguingly futuristic air, while above-the-knee gladiators came in mirror effect silver straps and transparent plastic pumps edged in black had geometric plexiglas wedges. Emporio Armani’s ankle boots looked perfect for a trip to space, with a sporty mood. Unlike Balmain, the brand paired acetate with python to give a chicer, warmer look. A spaceship resembling a grey and white clutch made its mark on the Louis Vuitton runway. Rochas’s silver court shoes and sandals with retro gold buckles seemed to have been launched by aliens during an expedition to Earth, while Jeremy Scott dared with combat boots in silver metal leather and fluorescent colours and transparent over-the-knee boots festooned with colourful crystals.