The new collection from Belgian designer Glenn Martens was staged in the beautiful cloister of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, in cavernous darkness illuminated only by the torches handed to the audience and the flashes from the cameras. Perhaps to offset the shadowy atmosphere of the location, Martens chose oversize volumes, layering and pale colours with a few touches of red, creating a good balance of tailoring and sporty that was openly genderless. Comfortable jacquard jumpers were worn over checked shirts or jackets and paired with loose trousers or thigh-high boots. Long fringed scarves with carpet designs fell over the shoulders of overcoats or were tied like sashes at the waist. Blazers and outerwear had unusual lapels, with one corner fastened with a button. The little light available bounced off the earrings, also worn by the men, before being lost in the darkness.