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Editorial

Whereas it was once the fathers dictating the rules, including in sartorial terms, now it’s the young who are taking the lead. Whether for good or bad, the world now belongs to the young, to this Y generation that does everything on its smartphone and tablet. Pierpaolo Piccioli, like many of his peers, has been wise to this for several seasons, so tracksuits, track pants and sneakers have now become the norm at Valentino too, even with an elegant overcoat, perhaps decorated with embroidery or floral appliqués. Aside from the maxi logo, the collection featured a tiger and dragon motif that Piccioli found in two archive photographs from the late ’60s haute couture womenswear, placing them on the back of outerwear, while punk-inspired studs were added to sleeves and shoulders. Zipped turtlenecks and thin crew neck sweaters were worn underneath, all in shades of blue, grey and black.