Just one season ago, Tom Ford’s show celebrated the glossy world of Beverly Hills with crystals and sequins even on sportswear. This time, the most glamorous designer took a step back from his signature excess with a simpler collection focused on tailoring. In eye-catching and unusual colour combinations, such as sea blue-purple, purple-brown and red-fuchsia-purple, fluid shirts were unbuttoned over a turtleneck and tucked into oversize satin trousers with turn-ups, structured and fitted blazers with firm shoulders and raised collars, extra-long coats with or without a belt. The looks repeated with few variations. What did change were the materials, which ranged from velvet to classic menswear fabrics to faux fur, which was also seen in the big fedoras, to technical fabrics for down jackets paired with hooded sweatshirts. The show ended with a series of long silk jersey dresses with heavy chain decorations, reminding us that Ford is still the undisputed king of glamour.