Imposing headgear – part crowns, part tiaras, part mitres – made with used T-shirts and other scraps of fabric stretched across irregularly shaped frames. They have to be the starting point to describe the new collection from Rick Owens, who began by reflecting on society’s rituals and ended by conveying other more profound and mysterious meanings. As always featuring complex draping, his clothes were long tunics, coats and cassocks worn over knits with extra-long sleeves, often bi-material, with asymmetric fasteners and rudimentary appendages, and were perhaps the most ‘wearable’ pieces in the collection. Then, came inflated, twisted volumes surrounding the silhouette, jumpers and dresses worn upside down, textile prostheses extended beyond the body, transforming it into an unsettling chrysalis.