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Editorial

Rick Owens continued the exploration of transgression he began with his last menswear collection dedicated to Larry LeGaspi, which looked at the taboos associated with gender and the battles to overcome them. His thinking also embraced the new types of transgression explored by young people experimenting with prosthetics and body modification on Instagram. One of them, 18-year-old Salvia, was hired by Owens to consult on the show’s unsettling make-up. Alien prosthetics aside, there were lots of tailored pieces here, such as jackets and coats with aerodynamic shoulders, at times inset with large side pockets, open over fetish bodysuits layered with studs at the crotch (a reference to LeGaspi’s costumes for Kiss). The rock theme was evident in the leather trousers and jumpsuits worn with inside-out cropped jackets and sky high platform boots, while long and short draped dresses in Fortuny-printed jersey were wrapped asymmetrically around the body.