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Editorial

Moving away from clothes for climate refugees and the associated constructions and wrappings, Rick Owens dives headlong into glam rock driven by his lifelong interest in Larry LeGaspi, the subversive American designer who designed costumes for Kiss, LaBelle, Divine and Grace Jones in the ’70s. We could call it a tribute from one designer to another, but it was also a metaphor for a troubled genius all vice, lust, dissipation and decline. The guys on the runway had the same ruffled, frisky look about them – long, untidy hair, skinny, pale torsos emphasised by thin jersey tank tops, oily high-waist skinny jeans or oversize trousers with contrasting insets down the leg. On top, they wore collarless eco-fur coats, extra-long down jackets, cropped shearling coats with long sleeves and quilted overcoats that resembled dressing gowns. Glam rock is served.