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Editorial

His previous collection reproduced aspects of his life on the clothes, like a photographic collage. Raf Simons’ ‘Youth on a pedestal’ returned to the runway in an extra-long version, wearing almost floor-length coats and gilets decorated with scribbles and drawings similar to those found on students’ planners or school toilets. These long overcoats covered in slogans were worn by the older students who subjected freshmen (Simons included) to hazing at college. The autobiographical references continued with old-school tight knit gilets with V neckline that went from good-boy perfection to a mess of holes, patches and contrasting insets, paired with flaring trousers. These were unisex clothes, perhaps because sexual identity is something that is gradually defined during adolescence.