Abstract Expressionist painter Helen Frankenthaler and minimalist sculptor Robert Morris, famous for his ‘felts’, inspired the new collection from the Proenza Schouler duo, who showed a series of coats made from a tangle of tweed strips and flaps peeling back. A similar technique was applied to bandeau dresses, which looped around the body revealing strips of flesh and thick fishnet tights. It was an energetic collection that had a primitive unfinished quality, especially in the final long dresses with tufts of fur applied to the shoulders and diagonally across the bust and sheer tunics with visible underwear, decorated with fringes and metallic eyelets, reminiscent of Native American dress.