Take Princess Diana to a London club from her youth and mix in a little Siouxsie Sioux. This was the operation carried out successfully by Lorenzo Serafini for Philosophy. Not that the designer’s signature romantic touch was missing, but this time it gained a punk edge. Trousers were in lacquered black or red napa leather, soft and shiny at the same time, and often fastened with another Philosophy staple, a bow. The mood continued with double-breasted outerwear, gathered shoulder straps and quilted jackets. There was lots of voile for little dresses in white lace and ruches, napa leather and especially knitwear for one-shoulder dresses and sweaters. Ruches also appeared in a skirt in herringbone tweed, which was also used for a coat fastened at the waist. Muslin, brodé tulle, plumetis, cady and silk chiffon were given a rock edge with just a row of metal buttons or a studded belt.