Silk and charcoal. Denim and the westerly wind. This is the new spirit of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, which showcased the American dream between Aspen, Wichita and New Mexico. The show had a western vibe with its all-denim looks, shearling jackets and suede fringes. But there were also airy, impalpable pieces. These reflected the clear, brisk winds of the vast open prairies and plains. Nature and purity were expressed in silk and chiffon dresses with romantically gathered collars, light flounces, ruffles, transparent white lace, tulle, polka dots, delicate prints of buds, flowers and pastel colours. The deeper, darker side of the land also featured: there were sophisticated gold-diggers in puckered velvet suits, smoke-coloured knitwear filled with the dark shadows of rocks and mines, with flashes of light and metallized leather. The palette ranged from cognac to denim blue, from pastel pink to canary yellow and concrete.