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Editorial

The man that made American sporty-chic his own leitmotif looked this time to the United Kingdom, dipping into its tailoring tradition to construct a collection packed with menswear elements (including the classic lace-ups), with an added retro twist and an abundant use of fur for collars and insets. Checked coats and tweed blazers with belted waist and ’40s tapered skirts alternated with soft, cosy cable or ribbed knitwear, either as a dress or a chunky sweater teamed with fluid pyjama pants or ¾ trousers with crease and turn-ups. There was lots of focus on the sleeves of outerwear, cut into capes or decorated with fur, or even with golden threads, which also ran over a long dress with ¾ sleeves and a jacket worn under a navy military coat. The finale was all about bias cut long dresses, including a double-breasted sleeveless tuxedo with a thin belt.