Marco de Vincenzo’s refined, but no less fun, collection has just the right amount of pop. The most surprising aspect of the collection was the use of colour: the runway was like a spectrogram of white, yellow, red, blue and black. Graphic details used the same method and resembled modern Japanese prints. The land of the Rising Sun was evoked not in the usual kimono but in the silks to give shape to trousers, jackets and shirts by mixing patterns or to counter lurex. Femininity was heightened by macramé lace wrapping around the hips and by the bust set into dresses like jewellery. Skirts were long, either plissé or high waist and narrow. Shredded fabric resembling fur or feathers was used to construct long coats and dresses but also long gilets and trousers.