Marc Jacobs, now 55, was a fashion-mad teenager and in this collection he showed everything he has loved over the years since then. He referenced ’80s-era Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld’s earliest days at Chanel but also his own archive, taking everything to extremes as though the decade in question were not excessive enough. So, giant Pierrot collars exploded under little bouclé jackets and tailored blazers with oversize shoulders paired with loose trousers with high waist and darts, wide sash belts with big flowers, and puffed-up feathery dresses. Veiled hats, ruched tops, silky overcoats, lurex tights and pastel or metallic colours created an infinite game of extravagant couture.