An extreme collection inspired by ’80s haute couture. Marc Jacobs put on another great show by paying homage to all the big brands from the hedonistic decade, from Mugler to Ungaro and Saint Laurent. The distinctive features of the time were all there: statement shoulders, mega-ruches, enormous collars, belts with maxi bows, super high waist – in short, nothing was missing and everything was ramped up in size. Devoid of sex-appeal, barring a new form-fitting stretch knit looks, the body shape disappeared entirely inside big coats and cloak-overcoats, wide darted trousers, oversize sweaters worn over midi-length skirts and boots, while big wide-brimmed hats hid the faces. Thick, heavy fabrics and bold colours added to the excess.