He had been away from the Paris runways for four years, so his return was hotly awaited. Recruited by Renzo Rosso as the new creative director of Maison Margiela, John Galliano did not disappoint, following the menswear collection in January with a theatrical, brazen women’s collection. The models wore painted red scowls and eyes rimmed with fluorescent tints in an eccentric cross between Marchesa Casati and Blanche DuBois. Margiela merged with Galliano, experimentation met transgressive disturbance, and the result was radically changed elegance: a ’70s-style extra-long tailored coat and an evening dress worn with rubber gloves, pinstripe reduced to a pair of skinny knickerbockers or an ultra low neck blouse with floral mini embroidery, frayed hems on tops, mini-skirts and slip dresses, tufts of fur on transparencies and asymmetry, ripped jackets. ’The ephemeral muse’ of John Galliano is back.