The debut show for John Galliano, the new creative director at Maison (ex Martin) Margiela, who is back in the limelight after a forced period of exile. The change meant less experimentation, more wearability – classic menswear pieces reinterpreted without being too extravagant, since there’s time for that in the future. Men don’t mind tradition, of course, provided it’s not boring and has a few unusual details, such as a printed or satin strip crossing a tailored coat, painterly brushstrokes on jackets and gilets like painted canvases, lurex shining on the surface of knitwear. These were paired with high-waist soft trousers or boldly printed pants, while thin, tight knitwear and/or with extra-long sleeves protruded from the cuffs of jackets, and smooth or decorated heeled boots.