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Editorial

Lucas Ossendrijver dedicated his latest Lanvin collection to “the most unwanted and unloved garment that there is at the moment: the suit”. It’s true that all the sportswear on the runways now has pushed the suit aside somewhat. The first looks in the show were suits in plain, check or stripe with reworked proportions. The blazer was elongated into an overcoat and covered with functional pockets, topped in some of the looks by sleeveless technical jackets that so closely matching the suit it was unclear where one garment ended and another began. Detachable hoods and extra-long dangling straps falling from the lapels or used as a belt added to the proposition. More casual outfits featured oversize knitwear, asymmetric and layered, shirts were covered with treescape camouflage photo prints and in some cases paired with shearling insets on jackets, while XL coats were embellished with colourful stripes. ‘Camouflage tailoring’ would be a good name for it.