Military and utilitarian garments are constant features in menswear. Junya Watanabe has fun with this idea of men playing at being soldiers, but his latest collection features outfits that are the perfect combination of ready to wear and ‘combat’ fashion, bolstered by his collaboration with Ark Air, producers of high-performance fabric and garments and suppliers to the British Royal Marines and the French Foreign Legion. These were eye-catching hybrids in which classic Breton tops and shirts were layered under pseudo-bulletproof vests or multi-pocket harnesses and blazers with big technical bumbags, while trousers had camouflage turn-ups or were completely camouflage. The outerwear was also practical and functional, made mainly from technical fabrics with hoods, pockets and zips.