‘Kawaii’ is a Japanese term meaning ‘sweet’, ‘nice’, ‘amiable’ and is usually associated with childlike cuteness. Junya Watanabe named his latest collection after it, resulting in pairs of young models sporting big bunches in the hair and clumsily-applied doll make-up, with fake lashes askew and too much pink lipstick. But the designer never takes himself too seriously and likes to make an ironic point, which this time extended to the clothes in the form of grunge patchworks worn over skinny jeans tucked into silver-toed cowboy boots. The collection continued with a series of layered material collages topped with comfortable blazers, chunky sweaters, biker jackets and bombers. A reassembled, functional fashion that was far less cute and more practical than it first appeared.