Are designers obliged to have a theme? Not according to Junya Watanabe, who announced there wasn’t one this season. In fact, the 62 looks presented did have something in common: the idea of making the wardrobe as generic as possible to allow any number of combinations and transformations, a little like girls dressing up in their mum’s clothes or young women buying from vintage markets. A series of oversize masculine single and double-breasted jackets and coats were worn with skinny trousers or leggings with sporty socks and solid sneakers with chunky soles. Coats and trenches were destructured because the basic rule is that garments can transform or at least give the impression of being something else. Vintage-style floral dresses and shirts were layered over sweaters or felted dresses, extra-large bombers and parkas and more oversize, destructured blazers with double or mock sleeves that elongated over pleated floral skirts, socks and sneakers.