With her kohl-rimmed eyes and pulled-back wet hair, Julien Macdonald’s woman is that mix of femme fatale and mermaid that has made his body-conscious dresses famous. Trends come and go but his intricate ‘spider web’ knits and rhinestone-covered silhouettes are a mainstay. This time, however, Macdonald recognised the influence of his stay in Bali; contact with wild nature and the local craftsmanship gave that primitive touch to knitwear, with the addition of a batik to highlight prints and precious appliqués. The dresses, of various lengths, but tending towards the short, gave way in the finale to sinuous jumpsuits with long peplums at the sides.