The diaphanous sirens that usually fill the Julien Macdonald runway made way for dark ladies in fetishist sheaths teamed with long black leather gloves, court shoes with straps that came up to the ankles and calves (and even an extra-long pirate boot version) and matching chokers. The black and the electric blue, fuchsia and sinful red came with satiny effects, lacquered embroidery and sprays of glitter, while lace, mesh and transparencies covered the surfaces, often shot through with front zip closures. The hemlines spanned short to full-length, with bodycon sheaths entirely decorated with bright embroidery or with bodices that were a web of knit, body-armour tops with belted waist paired with black mini-skirts, tunics that turned silver in the finale complete with long fringes that revealed more than they concealed.