A very British collection from Bill Gaytten for John Galliano, who alternated tailored blazers and suits, some in classic check, with diaphanous dresses packed with transparencies, flounces, polka dots and precious embroidery, under which the underwear was glimpsed, but whose romanticism was curtailed by the addition of men’s lace-ups. There was an air of revolution under these looks, a well hidden rebellion expressed by punk details such as studs and safety pins applied to lapels and/or sleeves, by rave-era pieces such as military green checked parkas and coats and by sportswear such as track-pants with contrasting bands, which simultaneously recalled the Queen’s guard uniforms – a reference also seen in the various interpretations of the classic hat.