The Jasper Conran catwalk was covered with a carpet of dry leaves, which chimed with the autumnal shades on display – forest green, purple, blue, aubergine – while the twist was a ’20s echo with fluid silhouettes, drop waist or waist-less looks. It was all about skirts and dresses, no trousers at all, perhaps to underline the marked femininity of this woman who likes to wear cashmere and velvet in rigorous art deco geometric patterns, which really stood out against the silky or velvety surfaces. Hemlines fell to the knee or just below, jackets and blouses – especially one in suede with sheer sleeves – had boxy, defined shapes, while shirts were as fluid as the pleated skirts worn with loose kimono coats. The wide-brimmed hats, designed by Stephen Jones, concealed the models’ faces, adding a further touch of mystery.