A skilful play of draping and asymmetry was at the heart of Jason Wu’s new collection which drew inspiration from the elaborate tailoring of Madame Grès, the queen of draping, on peplums sculpted and fluted like marble. And just as the great couturière created her clothes directly on the body of her clients, so Wu’s clothes seem to have been sewn onto the silhouette while staying fluid and impalpable thanks to the use of silk, chiffon and crêpe georgette. In another similarity with Grès, fabrics were slashed to reveal erogenous zones such as the abdomen, now ‘only’ sensual but scandalous at the time. Dense floral patterns mimicked an abundance of draping and panelling, while solid colours such as ivory or powder pink highlighted every fold in the fabric. Masculine blazers and shirting fabrics provided a strong contrast.