The focus was on decoration for the new collection from Jason Wu, who said he was struck by the work of industrial designers Ettore Sottsass and Michele De Lucchi with Swarovski crystals. Myriad crystals were sewn onto jumpers, veiled skirts and dresses accompanied by another motif which Wu took from Mariano Fortuny, the Spanish-born and Italian-adopted artist and designer. He developed a technique for finely pleating silk, giving it an almost crumpled appearance, and the designer used it here for midi length skirts, cropped tops, coats and as a crossover detail over the bust and midriff. It made for a strong contrast when paired with masculine pieces such as blazers and shirts worn over a tight turtleneck.