Staged on the terrace of Villa di Maiano, just outside Florence, the performance-show put on by Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air was an open declaration of how the Florentine underground should be and how young people should dress to be a part of it. More energy and dark tones, without giving up on tailoring, because this is Italy, and particularly Pitti, after all. So the brand’s signature destructured streetwear was presented with a tailoring approach, including monochrome or multi-coloured double-breasted coats, intarsia’d on the shoulders, and destructured tailored outfits, with little pleated skirts worn over trousers that were a mixture of track pants and dress trousers, or reworked cargo pants. The models’ extra-long blond eyelashes featured by extension on army parkas, while glass marbles acted as earrings and rings.