The Hermès woman is tough and sexy when she wears black leather, especially in total looks, as seen in the first exits in Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show set in a twilight garden on a dark red gravel path. The looks recalled Helmut Newton’s ’80s portraits of powerful women, especially the opening overcoat with a silver chain set vertically down the front, worn with matching gloves and red suede boots, and the 3/4 sleeve dress with a wide belt and studded shoulders and pockets. Cashmere and knitwear were later added to the mix, along with a horse riding theme, and the atmosphere turned more poetic. Skirts, dresses and jackets referenced horse blankets, with yellow stripes across the surfaces later proposed in pinkish red. More equestrian elements came in the form of contrasting leather inlays and strips on jackets, dresses and trousers, before a return to leather for the finale in green and brown for a less aggressive touch.