After a year and a half away from the runways, Helmut Lang returned with the creative direction of duo Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson. The former came from Givenchy and Neil Barrett, while the latter, a denim expert, headed the global creative direction of Calvin Klein Jeans under Raf Simons. The result was a collection that tried to be as ‘Lang-ian’ as possible, inspired by the ’90s in which the German designer was one of the authorities on fashion with his tailoring and chromatic minimalism. In basic shades of grey, black and white, and hints of red and pink, masculine suits and coats with a few dinner jackets were worn with a white or transparent shirt, some of which featured a horizontal silver stripe. The most elegant looks also featured silver and glossy surfaces, including the few dresses in the collection.