Haider Ackermann is a designer that, while staying true to himself season after season, always has the power to change, turning what could become boring into something new and appetising. Maybe it’s down to his new venture as creative director at Berluti, but his latest collections especially have been infused with a particular energy, as was this one for next summer, dedicated to a young, rebellious spirit seeking his place in the world. Part nomad, part pirate, he wore leather pieces and fluid shirts or wraparound jackets open over a bare chest, mainly in black and white but with a surprising lilac suit thrown in. Loose trousers were worn low to reveal the underwear and paired with flip-flops. Stripes and polka dots also appeared in total looks and knits were tied around the neck over a matching vest.