“Order and chaos”. This is how Haider Ackermann summed up his summer collection backstage – far from the enveloping shapes and draping seen in his usual work. Here Ackermann focused on exact tailoring, with masculine suits featuring structured jackets ranging from cropped to long with rounded sides, belt and horizontal cuts at waist height, stiff bustiers worn with high-waist tuxedo trousers. The play of contrasts between masculine and feminine continued with biker jackets and sporty t-shirts over long plissé skirts. The real news in the designer’s style were these metallic Miyake-style pleats, while the black and white palette also had dashes of electric yellow, orange and bordeaux splatters.