Haider Ackermann’s show was a homage to the carefree nature of youth, free from “the heaviness of the world”, as the designer put it, resorting to contrasting colour ‘mash-ups’ on kimono-like fluid cassocks – effects that had something frisky and voluptuous about them, as fashion editor Luke Leitch put it, a ‘reinterpretation of sweat-drenchedness achieved post a dusk ’til dawn session of sybaritic dancing’. The rest was very ‘Ackermann’, from the oriental style to the layered fluid silk tops, worn with skinny patent leather trousers or white jeans, which were also offered in a much looser version, with a low crotch but always narrow at the cuffs. There was also a sporty rock edge, with side bands on the trousers, drawstrings, vests and hoods worn on the head.