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Editorial

Perhaps influenced by his menswear job at Berluti, Haider Ackermann gave his new women’s collection an all-new rigour made up of straight lines and a palette that did not shift far away from black and white. Devoid of all decoration, with the exception of a few gold filaments across the surfaces, the garments were extra-long coats and suits with cropped, rather tapered or skinny trousers in leather, just as the designer likes them. The dresses were long and in some cases the skirt was covered in Mongolian fur, which also featured on the sleeves and/or shoulders of some outerwear or was used as a jacket with contrasting lapels. Leather gloves and boots completed the mood.