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Editorial

A collection rich in both colours and materials. With his signature decadence, Haider Ackermann showed frivolous ruches and fringed scarves falling asymmetrically about the body dressed, as ever, in layers: a coat over a gilet over a shirt, worn outside low rise slim trousers, a blouse over a turtleneck, extra-long sleeves peeping out from beneath the sleeves on top. A lover of lustrous fabrics and iridescent effects, the designer chose black leather and velvet in intense red, burgundy, green and various shades of blue, but also featured animal prints on knits and outerwear. All this dandy mock-shabbiness had a martial aspect to it as well, reminiscent of a sort of Balkan bandit, especially when wearing a side cap and wrapping up in raised collars and lapels.