With kohl rimmed eyes like a silent movie star, the Armani man is every bit as elegant and charming as the divas of old. The Hollywood loved by king Giorgio as a child is all here, in the fitted silhouette, with slim three-button jacket, high-waist trousers, wide hips and jodhpur-style darts, the shady, velvety tones ranging from grey to blue to brown with touches of antique blue and burgundy. The destructured blazer was increasingly relaxed, with raglan shoulders, even resembling a cardigan in some looks, in others given a Mandarin collar or high-necked and double-breasted, but always so impalpable and soft that they could be layered over one another. Jackets and sweaters were often worn over bare skin, with warmth provided by soft knit scarf-collars, an alternative being the white shirt, this time without a tie.