Giambattista Valli brought back the demure young lady, with her cocktail dresses ranging from short to full length, with mainly high, Victorian collars, tight bodices and flared plissé skirts, or vice versa, fluid on top and more fitted below. The surfaces were a whirl of three-dimensional embroidery, guipure lace, floral prints and ruches, which featured both on tops paired with airy little chiffon skirts moved by pleats or ruches and romantic, thickly embroidered long dresses. The outerwear varied from slimmer, straight lines to cosier pieces such as those with intarsia furs, jackets had zip fasteners and fur collars, while extra-long coats were covered in floral embroidery. Everything was worn with strappy boots or ballet flats.