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Editorial

Talking of “living without restrictions and free from conventions”, Giambattista Valli cites Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent’s scandalous muse who rebelled against her bourgeois roots with daring, debauched life choices. The word ‘bourgeois’ has many facets, and the designer opted for the rebellious refusal of preconceived values, i.e. the idea that rules are there to be broken. His floral and animal print mini-dresses packed with ruches, draping and asymmetry were the best expression of that, even more so when lace insets were added or little fringed scarves were knotted at the neck. The effect turned tougher and less decadent when cropped leather jackets with or without fringing and oversize blazers were layered over the looks, or when light, fluid fabrics were replaced by vinyl, which was also used for the trousers tucked into multi-buckle boots with a fetish feel.