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Editorial

Dramatic and theatrical, Gareth Pugh brought an urban nightmare to the runway. The key words were fetish, sadomasochism and bondage. But also punk, decadence and dystopia. Faceless women wore grotesque masks or hid behind fetish headgear, fans or immense hats. Unsettling creatures of the night, macabre and seductive shapes with sharp edges and broad Eighties shoulders in metallic trenches, sheer raincoats, and armour-like blazers. Rebellious, provocative women wore short dresses, leather kimono, dark slip dresses, bustiers and plastic suspenders. The footwear was bellicose, combative military boots. Profane, borderline, outsiders. Red and black bodysuits were covered in optical, psychedelic stripes. Embellishments included big crystals, buckles, printed effects and drips. Like the tormented characters in a theatre show. This is how Gareth Pugh paid homage to punk icon and mentor Judy Blame, who passed away in February 2018.