The style narrative of Gareth Pugh, shunning the trends and the fickle fashion world, is developed around the idea of sacrifice – an archetype as old as the world, which lends itself to a number of interpretations. Love, war but also football – yes, the sport taken to England by the Roman conquerors and still a source of national pride. An army of warriors in black, St George’s cross painted on the faces (and on the naked chest in the finale), walked solemnly wrapped in capes, furs and puffy down jackets over flared trousers or long flared skirts that concealed the feet. Sculpted body-armour tops in leather alternated with others featuring wide sleeves and high voluminous collars, while the dresses of various lengths were covered in fringes or metallic beads. Scots Guards-style headpieces had a series of chains hanging beneath the chin.