Francesco Scognamiglio wanted to breath new life into aristocratic heroines while emphasising their rock, transgressive soul. He was influenced by “Der Rosenkavalier” by Richard Strauss, a modern opera with a more fragmented melody than the composer’s previous work. The designer took the romanticism of certain looks, certain floral patterns and pastel colours and messed them up with insets, transparencies and studs through which satin ribbons were threaded. Bombers gained embroidery and rhinestones, fur collars added personality to coats, jackets were shot through with lacing and animal prints were given colour injections. Breath-taking showers of crystals covered barely-there dresses in precious brightness. The hand-embroidered organza and chiffon looked no heavier for all that shine, making these the standout pieces of craftsmanship.