“Milan is full of secret places like this one. And I love the idea of confronting classicism with a modern approach.” So says Alessandro Sartori, who for his second collection for Ermenegildo Zegna chose to stage his show in a courtyard of the Università Statale, a Renaissance architectural gem transformed into an almost futuristic set with a rust-coloured carpet inspired by the coat of the vicuña, a llama-like creature from the Andes whose extremely fine wool Zegna often uses in its clothes. This rusty colour was also found in the collection, alongside grey, geranium, brown and beige. Aside from a few structured outerwear pieces, the looks were soft and sporty. Light blousons were paired with tailored track pants and sandals or sneakers, silk knits replaced T-shirts under blazers and faded silk was used in abundance for its airy, light appearance.