The show opened with an all-black look and ended with optical white, but in between came micro and macro madras patterns in delicate shades ranging from pink to earthy tones, just to remind us this is a summer collection, albeit next year’s. Stefano Pilati for Ermenegildo Zegna evokes everything that can and must be associated with summer: airy fabrics, relaxed shapes, lightweight pieces caressing the body – classic but with sporty details such as drawstring or zip fasteners, multiple pockets and transparencies displaying the chest and legs. Contrasting volumes are a focus: oversize overcoats and comfortable blousons alternated with more fitted single and double-breasted blazers worn with trousers whose fluidity softened the tailored rigour.