An exercise in style on a ‘couture’ theme. This is what happened on Ermenegildo Zegna’s mirrored runway built opposite the Mondadori building in Segrate, which Oscar Niemeyer designed in 1968 – the same year Zegna began producing ready to wear fashion. The collection not only reflected the building but also its meaning: “volume without weight”, as creative director Alessandro Sartori called it. Voluminous yet light looks were made up of layers of mesh, wool and silk for suits, jackets and trousers that looked classic but also had streetwear cuts and sporty details. Elasticated hems, drawstrings, big pockets, patches, contrasting insets, zips and hoods merged into the tailoring, which included a bomber as well as a blazer. Sneakers were hyper-technical, becoming all the more irreplaceable for it.