The Ermenegildo Zegna collection showcased a classic man in shades of blue and grey but with a certain taste for embellishment represented by beading on evening suits, jacquard and bright brocades, embroidery and fil coupé, which even in the most sumptuous outfits took nothing away from the sense of balanced calm. Constructed over exact proportions and lines that alternated softer fits with slimmer, more structured looks in outerwear and trousers, the Zegna style revealed the confident hand of Stefano Pilati, who continues on his mission to reinterpret couture through the use of technical materials and sporty details, such as open zips on the back of 3D effect sweater collars. Like the old salon presentations, numbers were stitched onto lapels, sleeves, clutches and fedora hats.