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Editorial

The Neo-Brutalist hall of Milan’s Bocconi University was (artificially) transformed into a snowy mountain landscape, which Alessandro Sartori for Ermenegildo Zegna associated with the Oasi Zegna, the Alpine nature reserve created by the brand founder in the ’30s. Nature and mountains combined, inevitably, with tailoring in this show, which included ‘third breasted’ jackets, detachable gilets, tapering trousers with adjustable cuffs and long cashmere coats with removable belts. Shearling blousons, intarsia jumpers, padded jackets and jumpsuits (filled with wool, not feathers!) were alternated or paired in new natural-dyed fabrics: the rusty colour of a blazer came from tea and tobacco and purple came from the crocus flower. Like the Oasi, the clothes were made “to look as natural in their beauty as possible”.