Environment as an expression of character. Erdem’s muse was a distracted, untidy, out-of-time woman. Drawing inspiration from ‘The Collector’ installation at the Frieze Masters Art Fair last October, which depicted the apartment (and the life) of an anonymous collector in ’68 Paris, Moralioglu translated the sense of chaos and lost glamour into inside-out cocktail dresses with frayed edges and hems and coats that were lean on top and wide below, with wide pointed collars and the colour faded to a rococo jacquard. The tweed and animal fur suits also had the same worn, frayed look, while the leather dresses with lace effect intarsia had an austere air and conveyed a sense of stiffness. Sparse feathers covered the finale looks, with the last two featuring a turtleneck paired with a long fil coupé skirt.